Review: andBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge

Why did this hotel catch your attention? What's the vibe? The first impression of this lodge comes from the sky, as you drop down after about 1.5 hours in the air, over craggy canyons and khaki desert, barren save for the occasional leaf-less tree and ribbons of dried riverbed. Landing on the private airstrip (more sand, just with rocks organized to form an extra-long rectangle) the central building looks like a rusted sail, breaking out of the side of the lone hill and point in the direction of the equally burnt orange dunes directly opposite. From the strip, you can barely make out the 11 suites, peppered on either side of the lodge.

What's the backstory? Part of the andBeyond family, this lodge got a nine-month, $3 million rebuild—with only a few walls remaining from the original lodge and suites—to accommodate the dwindling animal population. While others lean into the excitement and energy of traditional safaris and game drives, andBeyond’s lodge leans into the overwhelming quiet of southwestern Namibia, with a focus on relaxing (peppered by adrenaline-pumping ATV rides and dune hikes).

Tell us all about the accommodations. Any tips on what to book? The lodge has 10 one-bedroom suites and a singular two-bedroom suite. I was in one of the one-beds, which offer floor-to-ceiling, frameless windows that enclose nearly three sides of the suite (including the indoor shower) offering unfettered views of the passing wildlife and sparse flora. The interior decor is subdued, to match the exterior environs, with khakis, browns, and a few pops of black spread across the natural fabrics and furniture. There's plenty of room to spread out when the days get too hot, from chaise lounges alongside your own private plunge pool (kept at a nippy temperature to slow evaporation in the strong sun), to enveloping armchairs inside, pointed out towards the desert. My favorite feature was the turndown service, which includes opening the in-room skylight, offering a view of the Milky Way from bed.

Is there a charge for Wi-Fi? Wi-Fi is free but restricted to the rooms, so that no rogue guest answering emails in the central lodge building can ratchet up your stress level. Mind you, the Wi-Fi isn’t exactly strong in the rooms either, just enough to send texts and emails—but that's alright by me.

Drinking and dining—what are we looking at? The food was great—if over-portioned. Breakfast involved build-your-own-omelettes and crepes, as well as pastries and a few small entrees. Lunch and dinner ranged from meat-heavy braais (or barbecues) featuring boerewors and gemsbok to steak tartare, with desert-cured egg grated on top. While meat-heavy, there were enough of salad options for vegetarians to make do. The best meal for us was cooked out in Deadvlei by our guide Dawid, who popped out a table cloth and full dining set-up from the back of his truck after we hiked the dunes in Sossusvlei. All meals are included.

And the service? Because there are only around 24 guests at any given time, service is personal and focused. You'll have the same housekeeper, guide (shoutout to Dawid!), and waiter throughout your stay, which makes creating a routine in such a foreign environment easy. At each meal, the lodge’s activities manager Vernon Swanepoel will stop by your table to check in on what you want to do that day, as there’s no set schedule for guests. Instead, the choose your own adventure-style menu has opportunities for e-biking around the lodge’s 12-mile path, hiking up to rock paintings in surrounding caves, driving quad-bikes over the dunes, or taking a sunset nature drive through the reserve. He is also on hand each night in the lodge's on-site observatory to answer interstellar questions.

What type of travelers will you find here? I visited just a few days after the lodge had reopened, so guests included a mix of American honeymooners, German retirees, Hong Kong vacationers, and travel specialists scouting the space for their own guests. Since it's a choose-your-own-adventure style lodge, you won't be spending your time with other guests like you would on a traditional safari drive scenario. Instead, we spent maybe two afternoons with other guests—the rest of the activities were on our own. (With that in mind, I would not suggest it as heartily for solo travelers as I would other safari lodges.)

Any other hotel features worth noting? While you'll be treated to plenty of sundowners, you can imbibe in your room, too, thanks to the fully stocked, full-sized bar filled with Namibian gins, South African rums, Amarula, wines, and more. Take advantage!

Bottom line: Worth it? Why? The lodge’s stark surroundings, filled with seemingly endless valleys and mountain-sized, five-million-year-old burnt orange sand dunes, is a playground for extreme outdoor adventure—while also offering ultimate relaxation and detachment from the outside world. It's a beautiful combo in a jaw-dropping setting. You can't ask for more.