Nyotaimori, or the Japanese art of serving sushi on a naked woman, has taken its place in the world of fine dining in the United States. Originally practiced by 17th-century samurai upon returning from battle, it has remained a celebration of the best cuisine reserved for special occasions. For these events, women will fully undress (some wear nude thongs) and lie on the table. The chefs will then adorn their bodies with large leaves which will hold the fish, along with decorative pieces like flowers and shells to cover the genitals and create a beautiful palette for the food. Due to food safety laws, the fish must not be placed directly on a naked body, although scrupulous hygiene is a requirement for the models.
While there are certainly no limitations to who can participate in nyotaimori, the dining experiences are typically in the top price range, since customers are paying for both the high-quality sushi and the models’ time. Companies like Nyotaimori Naked Sushi are typically located in cities known for high-end attractions like Las Vegas, Nevada, and Los Angeles, California, though some companies will travel to cater events. Rather than serving at their own restaurant, companies typically staff chefs and models who will travel to third-party locations for parties, business dinners, and other high-paying clients.
The meal itself may be hors d’oeuvres style, where guests walk around the venue and visit each model to sample items, or it may be a more traditional omakase, or multi-course seated meal. As it is a luxury dining style, the fish is said to be of the highest quality, similar to a high-end Japanese restaurant like Nobu. During the events, the models lie as still as possible, though they are usually allowed to speak if they want to. In this way, guests can interact with the meal as both a beautiful presentation of food and unique interaction with the serving style.
For both the models and the guests, there’s a connection to sitophilia, the connection between food and sex. While these events don’t involve sex, there’s an inherent sexuality to the practice both from the viewing of nudity in connection with the meal and the interaction between the model and the guests. Seafood itself is notoriously said to be an aphrodisiac, meaning that the food alone has a connotation of eroticism. Nyotaimori takes this notion a step further, adding a direct link between the sexy food and sex itself, and then setting the practice in a public event, which adds the elements of voyeurism and exhibitionism.
Both those with male and female anatomies can be models, though the male version of nyotaimori is called nantaimori. In the United States today, nantaimori is typically seen at upper-class bachelorette parties or similar events, where women clientele will enjoy the male form as a diversion from the traditional practice. While the models are not engaging in sex, working in this industry is considered to be sex work by many, due to the exposure of the genitals. Models are often paid in cash and work for tips, as well as benefits from the free food and networking opportunities after the event with the wealthy guests.
Similar to the criticism around other forms of sex work, nyotaimori is somewhat controversial in American culture. While some view it as an art form that honors Japanese tradition and creates a unique dining experience, others see it as a method of objectifying and demeaning women. While it remains a legal practice in many countries, China outlawed it in 2005, citing “public health and moral issues.”
If you are interested in hearing the first-hand account of a woman who has worked as a nude sushi model, this narrative piece in Vanity Fair is honest and illuminating. She describes the feeling of anxiety around performing during her first event, including holding still for the duration of the dinner and looking put together and positive. The author Melanie brings up an interesting point: there are two conflicting ideas of the self in this situation–art and exploitation–as with many other forms of sex work. It can feel empowering to imagine yourself as beautiful artwork, but also shameful to be perceived as an object by others. Ultimately, it is up to the individual workers to decide how they feel, and as with any line of work they deserve fair pay and respect from others.
For some like model Miranda Robero, this idea of becoming “performance art” is empowering and erotic. Feeling the gaze of others allows them to experience sensuality and connect with their bodies without physically engaging in sex. Robero cites heightened sensation and a deep relaxation that comes from the surrender to the experience – a feeling not unlike submission in power play. In this way, nyotaimori is loosely connected to the bondage practice of forniphilia, or using the human body as furniture. The key difference here is that the submissive practice uses the body, while traditional nyotaimori reveres it.
By Sydney Sullivan