Big Daddy and Big Mama watch over the sea of sand at Sossusvlei. Together with Dune 45 and others, they belong to the main attractions of the desert land. Namibia’s sand dunes, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offer bizarre panoramas and are home to wildlife. Today’s blog will show you that a visit is worth it.
Whoever comes to Namibia for the first time and wants to see the main attractions of the country, can’t get past Sossusvlei As a guide, I am lucky enough to visit them over and over again, and I can’t get enough. I discover something new every time, while I look forward to the familiar at the same time: the red of the dunes as the sun rises; the oryxes, springboks and ostriches leisurely grazing through the morning landscape; and of course, the walk across and between the dunes until I’m standing in the middle of Deadvlei, trying to comprehend the wonder. I will tell you all about it today.
Namibia’s sand dunes in Sossusvlei: The gateway to paradise
If you want to experience the gate to paradise opening, you should come here while it is still dark. On the main C19 and C27 roads, the dust kicked up by the vehicles in front makes it difficult to see. Many hurry to avoid being the last in line at the gate. Because of this, it’s easy to miss the animals that are crossing the road or standing on the side of the road. Fortunately, the main access road, the D826, is now tarmacked and offers a fresh, clear view at dawn.
If you arrive early and wait at the gate, you can get out of the car, stretch your legs and chat to others who are waiting. Some you know from the plane, others from the lodges. The atmosphere is good, the excitement great. And even though no coffee is served, it is invigorating.
The park officially opens as soon as the first rays of sunlight appear over the mountain. If the weather is bad, the staff at the entrance know what is happening behind the clouds and open the gate at the right time. Before you can pass, they document your vehicle number, the name of the driver, and the number of passengers.
When you leave the park later in the day, they will compare your details with your receipt. The good news is that you don’t have to pay right away! Enjoy first, pay later. You can drive right in and have a great day. As the day draws to a close, and you make your way to the exit, you will need to make a quick stop at the ticket office to pay your entrance fee.
Our favourite desert tours:
Wonders of the Desert
Places Kalahari, Namib Desert, Swakopmund, Spitzkoppe
from 21,200 NAD (based on 6 persons)
Discover Sossusvlei
Places Namib Desert (Sossusvlei, Deadvlei, Sesriem Canyon)
from 11,200 NAD (based on 6 persons)
Namibia’s sand dunes in Sossusvlei: into the sunrise
When the gate opens, the adrenaline rushes through the blood of many travellers. They want to be at point X to see the sunrise, or point Y to stand undisturbed at the viewpoint. Or climb the famous Dune 45 this morning. The road will soon be transformed into a racetrack with Formula 1-style overtaking manoeuvres and pit stops. Although the speed limit is 60 km/h, many people seem to have the misconception that this is an age limit rather than a speed limit. Don’t let yourself be rattled. This is a place where the journey is the reward, and the moment is what makes it special.
As the sun rises behind the Naukluft Mountains, a unique landscape awakens before you. First, it is this arid expanse with its small dried-up oasis, which takes on a bizarre shape in the soft morning light. Then there are the oryx, springbok and ostriches, which harmonise the troubled inner life, nibbling with relish on the sparse vegetation and moving about the area with as much peace of mind as the Dalai Lama. With every metre you drive along this panoramic road, the Namib dunes get closer, until you seem to be standing amongst them.
If you had been here 200 years ago, this would have been the end of your journey: nothing but desert around you. Without roads, electricity pylons or houses, it would have been easy to lose your bearings and feel lost. But things are different now: those who have never known the desert will experience it at its most beautiful here in the Namib. The dunes, which once could have meant death, are now as friendly, magical, and inviting as the winding landscape of the Swiss Alps, only warmer. It can get really hot here. There is no shade. You need to bring water, a hat and, ideally, already have sunscreen on your skin.
Is Sossusvlei worth a visit? The adventure in the dunes
Many travellers choose to stay overnight within Sossusvlei, either at the state-owned Sossus Dune Lodge or at the state-owned NWR Sesriem Campsite. This way, you are allowed to drive the first 60km to the first car park in the morning before the gate officially opens. If you have a 4×4, you can drive another 5km through challenging deep sand to the second car park. This will allow you to not only avoid the morning Grand Prix races of the newcomers, but also the extreme heat of the day.
This is a great advantage for those who want to watch the sunrise from one of Sossusvlei’s most beautiful dunes, or for those who want to climb the highest peak in the sea of sand. The dunes here are some of the highest in the world. Standing on the road, it looks like a massive mountain landscape. However, only the view from above will reveal the area’s true wonder: red sand dunes in star, longitudinal, crescent and sickle formations. In between you will see the empty riverbed of the Tsauchab, dried-up salt pans such as Deadvlei or Sossusvlei, dead and living camel thorn trees, nara plants and salt bushes.
Namibia’s sand dunes in Sossusvlei – an overview
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the dunes are protected and, with a few exceptions, it’s not allowed to walk on them. Some of the dunes achieved a certain level of notoriety, so I thought I would give them a brief introduction here:
Elim Dune
Elim Dune lies approximately 5km north of Sesriem Campsite. This red dune is known as the sunset dune, and accessible by 2×4 vehicle. Elim Dune is rather small and perfect for an enjoyable early morning or evening walk. Either way, it is a great place to enjoy the beauty of your surroundings and experience the romantic evening or morning light.
Dune 7
Dune 7 in Sossusvlei is often confused with Dune 7 located outside of Walvis Bay. The latter is very popular, for example for sandboarding. It is undoubtedly impressive, but not nearly as high as Dune 7 at Sossusvlei. Dune 7 is impossible to find on your own. There are no signs to guide you to the highest dune in the sea sand. No trespassing. From the road, you can look out for the highest dune in the area. Depending on which source you trust, it is either 383m or 388m high. But do you really see the highest one, or is it just an illusion? Dune 7 is supposed to be the seventh dune on the banks of the dry river Tsauchab. It sounds easy, but you see for yourself.
Dune 45
Dune 45 is said to be the most photographed dune in the world. It is also probably the most walked on. The climb along the dune ridge is spectacular. The way up is steep – and many walk it in socks or bare feet, not in shoes. As you climb to the 80- to 110-metre-high peak, the view into the depths of the sunlit landscape is nothing short of majestic. Rich red dominates the eye, while millions of years old sand deforms underfoot. You feel free and don’t regret getting up so early. The hour flies by.
Nobody really knows why this dune is called Dune 45. Some say that all dunes get numbered, and this one got numbered 45. Others say that it got its name because it is 45 km from the entrance gate. Maybe both are true. As steep as the climb feels, it could also be the gradient that is meant.
Big Mama
Alongside Big Daddy, Big Mama watches over her children in the sea of sand. The Big Mama dune is located north of the Big Daddy dune and is nestled on the eastern edge of the Sossusvlei pan. As with the other dunes, truly reliable height estimates are hard to come by. You have to climb about 200 metres to reach the summit. Not as high as Big Daddy, but much fewer people. You can enjoy stunning sunrise views from up here. And the climb is far easier than Big Daddy, considering the height.
Big Daddy
Climbing Big Daddy is the biggest challenge amongst climbing any of the Namibia sand dunes. Between 325 and 400m, you can find all sorts of height estimates. You should probably go with 325m, but then switch on your calibrated altimeter and drop me a line to let me know what your watch says. But it doesn’t really matter. The climb is strenuous for most in every way. Especially those who start late and march for too long in the heat will soon give up. Depending on how fast or slow you walk, you can expect to take 1–2 hours from the second car park to the top – including breaks and stops to enjoy the views.
Big Daddy is a star dune and offers several climbing routes. The dune can also be climbed from the first car park. But the route from the second car park is my personal favourite. It will soon lead along the Deadvlei – a great sight. Many dare to make the long walk to the top of the dunes, only to plunge down the steep side of Big Daddy into the depths of Deadvlei. But Deadvlei is not called Deadvlei because of the death-defying “falls”. You’ll see: It’s much safer than it looks from above. And it’s a total kick – fun to the power of ten.
Deadvlei got its name from the dead camel thorn tree skeletons that protrude from the ground in this massive, dried-out water pan. They are estimated to be 100 years old. The scenery is Dali-esque and intoxicating to the senses. As soon as the flash has passed, you can make your way back to the car park. It’s only 1.1 km and much more relaxed than the climb to Big Daddy.
So, get into the dune adventure! Namibia’s sand dunes in Sossusvlei are definitely worth a visit. We are happy to answer any questions you may have and to help you plan your trip to Namibia – whether you are traveling on a guided tour or on a self-drive tour. As a local tour operator, we are always well informed about the current situation. So, get in touch with us!
Author: Juan Proll
